Ireland, Greenland, Iceland and Norwegian Fjords 30th June 2008 - 18th July 2008
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6th July Qaqortoq "Julianhab" (Greenland) As you sail into the remote port of Qaqortoq, previously named Julianhab, you will be greeted by spectacular rocky mountain peaks. Lying at their feet is a pretty harbour with colourful wooden houses. Explore this intriguing town and learn more about Greenland’s Nordic past. Around the main square sit several old buildings, and in its centre you can see the only fountain in the country. The museum houses a selection of Inuit utensils and Viking artefacts, whilst behind it there is an exact replica of a 1900’s turf house. Other sights not to be missed are the beautiful Saviour’ s Church and the unique granite rock sculptures, dotted around the area. Just a short boat ride away is Hvalsey Church. Wander the ruins, which are one of the best-preserved signs of Viking settlements in the country. The surrounding site was known by the Norse as the Eastern Settlement, but was abandoned after 1408 AD.

Photo Gallery:

One of the topics of conversation the previous night had been the possibility of seeing icebergs and more to the point, what time we'd start to enter the ice field. With that in mind, we had an early start to the day; up at 5am and outside on deck by 5:30.

Even though the outside temperature was only 3 0r 4 degrees and the wind made it feel more like the top of Skiddaw in December than the beginning of July, I was still surprised at just how few people made the effort to get up to see this incredible site. If all the scientists Etc are correct then this really was something not to be missed. In 2, 3 or 4 decades these simply will not be here any more.

In the smaller ports of call where the ship is too big to fit into the harbour the lifeboats are used to "ferry" passengers back and forth. Taking approximately 100 or so people at a time.

Julianhab, now known by the Greenlandic name of Qaqortoq, is situated on the southwest coast of Kalaallit Nunaat, the country of the Greenlanders, on an inlet of the Davis Strait separating Canada and Greenland. Qaqortog (meaning white place) has a population of only 3,100 but is the fifth largest town in Greenland and an important educational centre. It is on a similar latitude to Bergen in Norway and Unst in the Shetland Islands.

The Church of Our Saviour (Frelserens Kirke), also known as the Old Church, is a lovely red painted wooden building near the square. It is an early example of a prefabricated building, made in Norway and later assembled in Qaqortoq in 1832.

Inside is a lifebelt from the ill-fated Hans Hedtoft, a poignant reminder of the dangerous seas off the coast. This ship was on its maiden voyage and, like the Titanic, was considered to be unsinkable. Shortly after leaving Qaqortoq the ship struck an iceberg during a storm on 30th January 1959 and soon sank. Despite an extensive air and sea search no trace was found of the ship or the 40 crew and 55 passengers. Nine months later the lifebelt was washed ashore in Iceland.

Walking around the town we saw many of these granite sculptures; "The Stone and Man Project". They date from the summer of 1993 when the Greenlandic artist Aka Hoegh encouraged Nordic artists to create works of art.

Lake Tasersuaq is found a short walk from the main town.

Now this isn't something you see very often at home. The way they could balance these on their head and shoulders was impressive enough, even on the rough down hill section to the harbour, but once they got in the water, I've never seen anything move away so quickly in my life.

Another iceberg slowly passes the harbour.

The Town Square.

Just outside the museum is this replica of a peat and stone hut. These were the typical Greenland dwellings of the late 19th century. (the wooden building behind is not part of it)

Perhaps everyone else is on the other side of the ship !!

More icebergs as we sailed out of the fjord to reach open water.